A Very Informal Interview with Mitsu Iwasaki

Last month that the American Alpine Club declared that Mitsu Iwasaki would be the organization’s new CEO. This is good news, because hersquo;d be substituting Phil Powers, who’d headed the club for the last 15 decades and declared he will be retiring last October. It was big news for me, too, since I’t been buddies with Mitsu since 2008 and also have shared many experiences with him, from climbing and skiing volcanoes from the Pacific Northwest into trail-running from the Grand Canyon for this one time we assisted a few random men load a massive roll of carpet pad onto a really compact pickup outside a Home Depot at Denver, without asking them if they believed it turned out to be a safe idea (by the look of the way bottomed outside the truck was as it drove away, I’m fairly sure it wasn’t). 

When Mitsu obtained the AAC occupation, I thought it would be interesting to interview himbut maybe not formally. I suggested iMessage, since this ’therefore the way we convey about 90% of their time anyhow. I am hoping it will help paint a picture of this person now contributing the 25,000-member climbing organization. 

Brendan

I have some expert questions and some not-as-professional queries, which I hope will keep you alert and make this interesting. I think that the very best strategy here is to simply be yourself.

Mitsu

OK. Sounds great.

I like tacos

Getting ahead

Brendan

We’ll do this part later.

Ok, so it might seem that you are the new CEO of the American Alpine Club, as of last month.

Mitsu

Yesas of August 3

I’m also the new CEO at the AAC 

Brendan

Do I speak to you about acquiring new membership cards, or who handles that?

(Photo: Brendan Leonard)

Mitsu

You could speak to me about membership, but it could be quicker to log into the AAC website.

Brendan

Just kidding

Mitsu

Oh wow! I am able to help get you a non-moldy card.

Brendan

I don’t think that’s mold

Mitsu

What’s going on to the borders

?

Brendan

Just some overall abrasion from being in my pocket I believe

Mitsu

Very well used! Love it! Additionally love that you haven’t needed to call the rescue hotline.

Brendan

I know, expecting to keep my streak alive for the rest of my life if potential

Anyway, was that the meeting to get the job like half work-experience questions and half of scaling questions, or how did it move?

Mitsu

I had been impressed with all the search committee. They made the early decision to concentrate on future vision of this club and not as much in my scaling résumé. It had been significant to the AAC that I’m a real climber–building a lifestyle about climbing–but wasn’t important to understand what or what not I’ve climbed.

Therefore, to answer your question more directly. 50 percent work experience and 50 percent eyesight.

0 percent climbing résumé

I am taking a chance today, after the meeting, to speak scaling with employees, boardmembers, and supporters.

Brendan

Did the search committee cite that Phil Powers climbed K2 and 5.13 at exactly the same calendar year?

Mitsu

Yes!

These are big shoes to follow.

Phil and I contrasted real shoe size. We are equally 8.5

Brendan

Hahaha

You should inquire if theyrsquo;ll settle for Mt. Rainier and 5.11 at the Identical season

Mitsu

Haha!

Brendan

For the purposes of this meeting though, what could you list as a few important elements of your climbing résumé?

(Besides our visionary 30,000th ascent of Ancient Art)

Mitsu

Oh intriguing question. My impulse is to record both the 5.12s and tough (ish) mountains routes in South America, Alps, Canadian Rockies, North Cascades, etc..

However,

I believe what’s important for me personally isn’t so far that the grades.

However, the ‘résumé’ of close friendships formed at the hills

Adding you.

Brendan

Dude you’re blowing my journalistic objectivity

But thank you

Mitsu

I meanI still remember our Estes Park expedition

Epic

Brendan

I believed you were going to say “What’s most important for me personally isn’t much that the grades, but the very fact that I have a master’s degree”

Mitsu

Haha

Brendan

Feel free to use that one if it comes up in conversation

Mitsu

I do think in addition to friendships, there’s been a lot of soul searching and studying from the mountains too.

And perhaps those are more important for me today.

In my 20s I did think the goal was to climb the hardest thing I can.

However, wasn’t learning anything from it, besides checking a tick list

Getting considerate and being honest with myself has resulted in a lot more joy

To your earlier statement, I’m surprised Ancient Art is still there

Jamie Logan, Mia Axon, and I had been talking about and remembering Billy Roos last night over dinner

Initial ascensionist of Cork Screw Route

Brendan

About South Six Shooter?

Mitsu

Ancient Art

Oh sorry

Stolen Chimney

Brendan

South Face of South Six Shooter as well, I simply checked.

Thus allow ’go through your biography a little bit: born in Japan, grew up in Seattle, graduated from Western Washington University, began working at Outward Bound right after school, do I have that right?

Mitsu

Yes. That’s right.

Indeed picked Western because of its proximity to the North Cascades

I often say that I #vanlifed before the hashtag

Lived at a VW van for the majority of the 90s

Brendan

and went vegan

Mitsu

Ha!

Yes.

Brendan

Long hair

Mitsu

For about 3 years

Inconvenient for haircuts in vanlife

Past my shoulders

My parents have been horrified

(Photo: Brendan Leonard)

Brendan

So that the Outward Bound excursions you led were in California, Baja, where else?

Mitsu

North Cascades, San Juan Islands, Central Cascades, Sierras, and Baja

Lived in Joshua Tree (or 29 Palms) to get some winters throughout that tie

Time

So. Yah. Taught a whole bunch of climbing paths from Joshua Tree.

Brendan

And did you really have leadership positions using OB too?

Mitsu

Yes, I’ve had a few chances with OB. I had been the executive director of Northwest Outward Bound School from 2013 through 2018.

Brendan

Ah sorry, I had been moving chronologically

Mitsu

ah 

Thus, yes

Program director at the Pacific Crest Outward Bound School

And Thompson Island Outward Bound School

And subsequently helped with a biography of Outward Bound Los Angeles using the larger network

Brendan

Can you get the Thompson Island occupation and decide to go to graduate school in Boston, or vice versa?

Mitsu

Yes, chronologically yes

Brendan

So you went into graduate school, obtained a masters at… nonprofit management?

Mitsu

Yes

I knew I needed to be in the nonprofit distance and at the outdoor sector, but my adventures at Outward Bound educated me that I had been a good educator and climber, but didn’t possess the background to direct organizations.

And to make a career within this space, leading organizations, I needed to go back to college.

I think there’s narrative which we’re able to learn at work, and I do believe lots of people can, and have, but believed that learning from different folks ’s encounters and from specialists made more sense for me personally.

At least, in the feeling which I would be more effective with schooling.

Brendan

So shortly after that you became the director of operations and security at Big City Mountaineers, where we met, and you no longer needed a van, were no longer vegan, but still had hair

Or am I missing a step?

Mitsu

You’re exactly right

I moved to Denver, offered my van and Purchased a Subaru

I adored that Subaru

It expired last year…

Brendan

Wait, how did you buy a new one?

Mitsu

I’m at a brand new one today!

2019 variant of the Identical car

Brendan

New automobile, seems fairly elite

Mitsu

Haha! So true

I browse someplace that a Tesla may be a Great street tripping/adventure car

That might be elite!

Brendan

Really

Would you say your time at Big City Mountaineers has been the low point of work-life equilibrium (or the summit of work-life imbalance)? I remember you and I bailing on a great deal of stuff at trailheads during the years.

Mitsu

Yah. I’d say that was lowest point of work-life equilibrium

And of just personal Wellness

Brendan

Yeah I don’t know if I saw you drink plain water at Work, simply coffee

Mitsu

A Great Deal of java! It’s mostly water. Right?

Brendan

Chemically, yes

Mitsu

I also remember eating a croissant bread pudding for your birthday

*chocolate* croissant

Or was your moving away?

Anyway. yes.  Too much java & not great work-life equilibrium.

Brendan

Going-away, Buffalo Doughboy Bakery

Mitsu

Yes!

Brendan

One moment I drove around Lumpy Ridge, and at the parking lot it was very windy, and I explained I think that the climb we were going to do would be secure, just the rappel may be somewhat difficult and you mentioned, “I’m not worried about it being not secure; I’m worried about it being not enjoyable. ” I often quote this when speaking about bailing.

Mitsu

Haha! That day was well. We drank

Java…

Brendan

I believe there were breakfast burritos also

Mitsu

We fed our soul

Brendan

OK accountable for all the logistical questions, but you abandon Big City Mountaineers at 2012? And now became the executive director at NW Outward Bound.

Mitsu

Yes

Moved to Portland

(Photo: Brendan Leonard)

Brendan

So what year did you cut off your hair? And get welcomed back into your family.

Mitsu

I cut my own hair day -1 of Outward Bound

My thinking has been that donors, supporters, partners, etc. should remember the contents of this dialogue as Opposed to the ED’s baldness

Brendan

Interesting

Mitsu

So, it had been a choice to put the focus on the business than on myself

I also guessed I had a hill to climb already being Asian

So

Reduce self created challenges in my job

Brendan

Ah OK

Plus long hair is a pain in the ass

Mitsu

That’s true

Brendan

And being back in Portlandyou began climbing and skiing that the Cascade Volcanoes with our buddy Kendall.

Her idea or your idea?

Mitsu

Yes!

I’m not certain who has claim to the idea

If I was to guess, Irsquo;d defer to Kendall

Brendan

That’therefore exactly what I was going to state

Mitsu

At some point we decided there aren’t enough volcanoes in the Cascades and are now climbing and skiing that the Pacific Rim volcanoes

Brendan

Therefore, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, Mt. Baker, Glacier Peak… did you do all the Oregon ones?

Mitsu

We haven’t skied the OR ones muchbetter. I think Hood x 3 times.  I haven’t skied Glacier.

Brendan

Ah OK

Mitsu

The North Cascades volcanoes are a little steeper than the Central Cascades

And a Bit More interesting

Brendan

Proper, Lassen doesn’t look that exciting

Mitsu

Haha

(Photo: Brendan Leonard)

Brendan

OK so after NW Outward Bound, you became the executive director at Mazamas at 2017?

Mitsu

I had a short interim ED gig at the Association for Experiential Education between Northwest Outward Bound and the Mazamas

8 weeks?

Brendan

Ah that’s

Mitsu

So super short interim thing

And the Mazamas

That I’m still feeling tortured about

I had been there for less than a year before this Chance to direct the AAC appeared

It’s a wonderful organization and I’m quite grateful and pleased to have had an chance to work with the staff and members at the Mazamas. And in the short time, I learned a lot about top member organizations.

Brendan

Well that’so pretty nice of you but I’m pretty certain they understand

Mitsu

Member *driven*

Yes, everybody at the Mazamas were gracious and understanding

Supportive, really

Brendan

I quit a telemarketing project after 4.5 times in 2004 if it makes you feel better

Mitsu

Ha

I read that as I ceased telemarking after 4.5 times

Brendan

Great transition, wish to talk about the way you stop telemarking after 20 decades?

Mitsu

I eventually sold my telemark skis before moving back to Denver

Yeah, I still love the telemark turn and I still believe my tele turn is much better than my parallel

But efficiency

AT skis are lighter, more reliable, and less physical effort

I’m aging

Nearly 50!

Brendan

You certainly don’t have to sell me on it

Mitsu

While I did promote my tele skis, I couldn’t let go of this boots

Thus, still hanging onto the idea that I’ll come back to tele

Someday

Brendan

Ace Kvale swears it’therefore greatest to get older knees

Mitsu

I think that he ’s an expert

Maybe I will reevaluate this

Brendan

OK I need to be aware of the time –how about a few AAC stuff?

Mitsu

Sounds great

Brendan

What are some of the eyesight bits you’re considering in your new job at the AAC?

Mitsu

I think the AAC under Phil’s vision and leadership over the last 15 years has gone through incredible expansion; we climbed from 7,000 associates to 25,000

And with that expansion, we’ve built capacity and larger visibility in the outdoor business

What Irsquo;d love to do with this is really to allow us to lean to community building, education, and advocacy

As part of this, I think we Can Help build a more cohesive and understandable gym-to-crag pathway in partnership with regional climbing associations

Additionally, I think there’s a chance for individuals to lean into difficult discussions

Some of those conversations being equity and addition, misogyny, eating disorders, chemical use/abuse

On advocacy/policy side, Irsquo;d like to invest more funds into building political power to protect our scaling regions in partnership with all the Access Fund and LCOs

We’ll of course continue to make chances and fund/support expeditions and increases which inspire us

I like to create/inspire dreams

And We Would like to encourage entry into scaling, be a team for Everybody, and inspire every one of us into additional adventure

I know that I had been a bit cagey about exactly what I’ve climbed earlier

That comes from my sense that we’re on great experiences and also we ’re pushing ourselves, if it’s big mountain in the Himalayas and also even a rainy afternoon on Lumpy Ridge 

Brendan

On the other hand, yes, wasn’t just hoping to establish that you have some qualifications

Mitsu

Yes. Authentic

And I think that’s equally important.

And so valued

Brendan

So overall, it sounds like your duty is to help the team evolve and embrace the diversity of scaling and climbers, in so many words?

Mitsu

Yes. Adopt all climbers and saying of being climber/human.

And be a pressure in generating opportunity for climbers, protect our scaling areas, and participate in significant conversations

Important conversation–civilization

Brendan

That sounds fantastic. So if you’re speaking to climbers at, say, Brooklyn Boulders, how would you market the idea of an AAC membership for themespecially as it relates to the future of this club?

(Brooklyn Boulders as opposed to, say, climbers at Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier)

Mitsu

Invest at the AAC to encourage advocacy and education for your climbing community

And as a company that retains a lot of our history because American paths in our archives and library

We, AAC, signify and are a team for several expressions of scaling.

We also carry a campground/ranch at Hueco. 

Brendan

And also the Gunks, right?

Mitsu

So allow ’so get outdoors and climb together!

Yes

Gunks

Grand Teton

Red River

A little hut at AK

Rumney

Not Red River

Sorry

New River

Brendan

Major difference there

Mitsu

A Great Deal of miles in between

And, I guess, as somebody seems to transition outside, membership Includes rescue insurance

Brendan

OK, last question from me I can let you get back to work: Did you happen to find the not-insignificant group of Japanese Alpine Club books at the AAC Library?

Mitsu

I did!

I haven’t read them yet. Once I’ve settled in and have a bit of time to breathe, I’m definitely going down to the library and sitting down with those books

Using a cup of java

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